The Bike and Sea Experience
By Dani Peled, Bluebird Riders Team 09/06/2010 18:15 PM
Biking trips in various countries have become a personal favorite in the past decade. After years of tiring treks in exotic and remote locations, I’d suddenly discovered the significant advantages of the bicycle as a vehicle: traveling a long distance without losing the unique experience of exercising in order to reach those faraway places.
In the past decade, I have honed my trip planning skills to take advantage of the many up-sides to bikes, and as the years passed, my biking trips have improved and become even better. Nevertheless, something was still missing... I couldn’t put my finger on what exactly, until I suddenly realized it during one of my more recent trips: What I was missing was leisure.
Coincidentally, I accepted the offer of Asaf Mohr from BlueBird Riders to come on a weeklong biking trip to the Croatian Islands. The main idea behind this trip is to use a Croatian gullet as a “floating hotel”. This gullet sailed between the islands along the Adriatic Coast, and we disembarked each morning and biked through one island or another. “The main idea”, according to Asaf, “is that we pedal along these amazing islands as the boat sails from one pristine bay the another, and picks us up at the end of our course”. I must admit that I had never before been aboard any ship, accept for a night-long sail to Cyprus (which ended badly), and I did not really appreciate the idea at first. Among my fears was my reaction to the boat’s weaving its way through the waves, and how the biking trails which I did not plan would turn out made me want to reconsider, however the adventurous spark in Asaf’s eyes made up my mind and I decided that for the first time in my life I would allow the planning and operation to be done by someone else.
I’d previously gone on a biking trip to Croatia with my wife, however we did not explore the islands, since we thought them to be tanning and winery hotspots (which we frequent less) and not a biking tour location. I didn’t have much time to hesitate, and before I knew it I packed up my bike and equipment, and one day later found myself in a minivan carrying me, my equipment, and a dozen other adventurers I had yet to get to know to Split, the enchanting port city where our gullet awaited.
Our bikes (packed in large cardboard boxes) were quickly unloaded from the minivan by the ship’s crew and we took out our cameras to take pictures of the marvelous gullet. A narrow bridge took us from the pier to a shining wooden deck covered in inviting white mattresses and a dining table loaded with scrumptious food and many types of drinks, all of which reminded us how hungry we are.
After stuffing our faces, all the passengers decided to take a refreshing nap, I closed my eyes and felt the gentle rocking of the gullet.
I won’t wear you out with bike assembly details, however there is something very special about the gullet, which makes people more socially active, and this was especially significant when we all set to work assembling our bikes.
After sailing for about two hours in clear, calm waters, we reached Vis Island, our first port. Asaf shortly briefed us using a big plasma TV on the gullet, outlined our first ride for the next morning, gave us general timelines and we settled down to a terrific seafood dinner with some excellent Croatian wine and filled by carbohydrates to give us the energy we would need for the next day’s ride.
The next morning began with a huge breakfast, and I had to restrain myself from eating too much from the various cheeses and other indulging foods that were available, I need only some cereal and coffee to get me going!
The riders set out in a single file, all in full riding garb and with helmets on their heads, armed with a bag of natural energy snacks (nuts, dried cranberries and more) that were previously prepared for the riders. We set off from the blue bay into the forested hills, the local guide rode at just the right speed, as if he’d read our minds and knew of our fears, and skillfully maneuvered us to a dirt road, void of automobiles, and we started our ascent into the mountains. A winding and well-worn path led us between tiny picturesque villages and abandoned military bunkers, in which Tito hid submarines during his regimes. Before I’d even noticed, we’d passed fifteen kilometers and ascended about 500 meters to an observation point with a view that surpassed even the wonderful pictures Asaf had shown us the previous evening. Vineyards and oak trees gave way to pine and oak forests as we passed one picture-perfect location after another.
As the trip went by, these views changed into Mediterranean forests and it felt as if we’d slipped into alternated universes. After resting for a bit and eating a light meal, under the shade of a gigantic sycamore tree, we continued climbing, and were rewarded with the view of a bay bathed in sunset, which we continued seeing as we glided down to Kumiza, where the gullet was anchored for the evening.
Our first day came to an end on the boat, making new friends as we enjoyed dinner together. It was the first of seven incredible days, and I finally found what I was missing in all of my other trips: The unconditional luxury of a floating hotel, which waited for us at the end of a long day of riding.
All I can do now is dream of the next time…
